The First Few Days in Rome

Bongiorno! After we settled into our new Vatican-adjacent home, we took a cab to the Spanish Steps to take in the Roman Christmas Eve scene. It’s worth noting that both of us had been to Rome before, so we didn’t feel the need to see all the sites again (spoiler: no trip to the Colosseum). Everything was beautifully decorated, and even though many families were out, it was not crowded at all. Actually, it seems like Christmas Eve is a pretty ideal time to visit Rome — many fewer tourists.

We strolled around for a bit through the various piazzas (there’s a fine line between wandering and getting lost), including stumbling on the Pantheon accidentally.

For dinner, we had a full on price fixe, 5-course meal at an intimate Osteria. A bunch of fishes, some salad, tiramisu, and 2 pastas: my favorite being the black spaghetti. Reminiscent of the last trip we took, we got to enjoy the pleasant accent but unpleasant demeanor of a crazy, old South African man sitting behind us yelling at the waiter. We were dying with laughter—some things never change. (Note: For those who don’t know, we had a salty South African as our captain when we sailed in the BVI)

(That’s the South African guy behind me). After dinner, around 10:30, we went to St. Peter’s for a little midnight mass action. The Vatican was brilliantly uplit (it’s like they’ve done this before). No way were we making it until midnight. Frankly, I don’t even know how he can do a 2.5 hour mass. So after getting in our selfies and Nasheed testing out her camera skills, we headed home.

The next morning, after a small breakfast of sweet breads and cheese, we headed back for the Urbi et Orbi — the Pope’s Christmas Day message. It had so many of our favorite things: Romans in all sorts of fun garb, a message of hope and diversity, and very easy security with little crowds. Not being able to speak Italian sort of hindered the understanding a bit, but we heard Bangladesh get a shout out.

From the Vatican, we had lunch (it was time for some simple, red sauce gnocchi and fettuccine bolognese). After, we collected our day bags and headed out to Rome Termini so that we could make our way to Lucca. Our cab driver was fantastic—an Italian who had married an American, lived with her in a few different places in the U.S. (including 4 years in San Francisco), then they got divorced. He described Rome so gleefully as “disgusting” and “rubbish” because all the buildings were just so old and worn down, and getting older every day. Skyscrapers and smooth pavement were more his thing. It was hilarious. Next, on to Florence and Lucca, where the trip really takes off.